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| HOME | ARTIST ARCHIVE | KICKIN GEAR | LESSONS /TIPS | RANT & RAVE | WHAT'S KICKIN | ||
Do you have a question that needs an answer concerning anything drumming? This is the place to get that answer. We have the hook up to all the local pros as well as the major drum manufacturers. Rest assured that if you ask us a drum or drum music related question here, we will get the answer for you. |
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Submitted by James (?) - 08-07 Thanks, James |
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Thanks for your question James. Choosing a double pedal is all a matter of feel and preference. I have suggested a few top of the line models below. Each of these pedals are the top offerings from their brand and are designed to aid the player. If you go with a cheaper pedal you will in most cases sacrifice things like durability and playability. I recommend that you go to an actual drum shop that carries several brands and sit down and feel the pedals before you make a decision. |
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AXIS STANDARD LONG BOARD. This pedal is preferred by a lot of heavy metal players for its smoothness and speed. Notice the pedal board has no hinged heel plate. This gives the board a little more length for power and leverage. If you have the cheddar, this one is a keeper. PRICEY |
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DW 9000 DW upped the industry pedal design standard with this model. With this unit it is all about the high grade cams and bearings. Very smooth and adjustable. Notice how the spring units are set up on the inside of the pedal columns rather than the outside. PRICEY |
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DW 5000 TURBO What can we say? This pedal has been and still is a favorite of many many drummers around the world. If you plan to play a lot of gigs, the DW units will stand the test of time. |
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GIBRALTAR 9611 With is newly designed foot board and lighter action, Gibraltar has a real contender here. Known for making great hardware products, they re-invented their top of the line pedal units with better springs, cams, and bearings. These pedals will not break your wallet either. |
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PEARL ELIMINATOR Now we are talking! The eliminator series of pedals by Pearl are among the most adjustable pedals on the market. You can choose from a variety of cams that ship with the unit to find the exact feel you are looking for. The foot boards are adjustable as well. There is really no limitation to what you can do with a pedal like this. I personally use a strap drive Eliminator because I find if to be smoother and quieter. |
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SONOR GIANT STEP The Giant Step Line by SONOR is another testament to how well Sonor designs things. These units are a bit expensive but they are very well made and are as good as a pedal can get. PRICEY |
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TAMA IRON COBRA As with the DW 5000, what can we say. The Iron Cobra is one tough yet smooth operator. One of the first to offer the light disc style beaters, this pedal is a favorite among rock players. |
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TRICK PRO-1V DOUBLE Every once in a while something new comes along. This new pedal by Trick Percussion is just that. It is a design concept that is a work of art. These pedals are fast, adjustable, and made from the strictest standards. The coolest thing about this pedal is the frontal knob spring tension adjustment on each unit that allows you to adjust the barrel spring on the fly. PRICEY |
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Submitted by Kenneth Lim - 02-07 Thanks, Kenneth |
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Kenneth, Those cases were purchased at a chain sporting goods store called Academy Sports. They do not seem to carry them any more. Let me make a recommendation to you. www.tuffboxcases.com These cases are well built and wont break the bank. You can find them on E-BAY in the percussion section. |
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Submitted by Christopher - 02-07 I have recently acquired a 1988 Gretsch drum set and I can't find any answers to my questions. The finish is a solid, light blue lacquer. I've only seen this color 1 or 2 times (I think Debbie Peterson from the Bangles had them). I can't find any information on this finish anywhere. I wanted to know what it was called, and how long it was offered. The tags on the inside of each drum have the letters i b written on them, which might be the color code. Also, I wanted to know how to have the paint restored, as they have yellowed and checked quite a bit. Is the checking (hairline cracks) usually in the clear coat, or could it be the color coat itself? Would they need to be stripped completely and re painted? What kind of place would be the most qualified in doing such a job? Please help - I really want to have the kit restored - preferably in a non-yellowing, check resistant paint. |
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Here is the response from Gretsch about your kit. I spoke with the factory, and unfortunately they could not find any info on that finish. The cracks may have come from extreme temperatures. If the drums are re-sprayed with nitrocellulose lacquer and re-buffed, they might disappear. It is impossible to say without seeing the drums up close. We recommend Sam Bacco, he specializes in Gretsch restorations. Advance Percussion Service Sam Bacco 4804 Nevada Ave Nashville, TN 37209 (615) 385-0305 |
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Submitted by Ron Hampton - 10-06
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We had to ask around on this one -
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Submitted by Cady Pruitt- 06-06 I am about to start drum lessons, and the place I am taking from provides drums so I have not yet bought my own drum set for my house and I was wondering what are some good brands that are affordable for me to purchase? I see that there is a long list of brand names on your links page, but I'm not sure which ones are the best and which ones are just ok? The only brand I know is Pearl. Hope you can get back to me with some suggestions. Thanks for your time. Cady. |
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Our own Editor in Chief, Ron Petitt, decided to field this one - Well, Cady you are on the right track by taking lessons. That can only further your desire and capability in the art. Now, down to the business of drum set shopping. I love when people ask me this question. I take that because you are taking lessons, you are serious about playing and if you are serious you should consider your first real kit an investment. Too often I see parents purchasing those $200 - $300 kits that serve no other purpose but to discourage the student about their playing. You will associate the sound of a kit to your own skills. If the kit sounds and feels like CRAP then you feel as if YOU sound like crap. That being said, I will go on to recommend a few of the major brands. My recommendations fall in the semi-pro lines rather than the entry level stuff. The reason for this is because of what I said earlier about associating the drum sound to your ability and progress. You don’t want to spend a mint but you also do not want to be cheap. If you grow in your playing, a simi-pro kit will last you longer before you feel the need to upgrade. You should consider a 5 piece kit with a pair of hi-hats, at least one crash cymbal, and a ride cymbal. This is enough to learn on or play any gig. If you plan on moving the drums around you should also consider an inexpensive set of drum bags to protect your purchase. See our articles on cases in our Tech Talk section for some alternatives. Here are the drum lines that I recommend you talk to your dealer about:
These are all great KITS and I only wish the lower cost kits of my early playing days were half as good as what is on the market today. All these kits were reviewed in the January 2006 issue of Modern Drummer™. |
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Submitted by Chris Morgan- 04-06 I noticed that Chris LeFebvre of the WonderDogs uses what appears to be a special case lining with his drum cases. What is this product or did he make this himself? |
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We forwarded this one to Chris LeFebvre - local pro drummer and owner of The Band House music store. Chris LeFebvre’s response to case lining. The case lining that I use is called “Silver Lining” by XL Specialty. They discontinued it couple of years ago when they came out with their Elite Air cases that ( in their opinion ) did away with the need for foam lining. HOWEVER- that type of foam can be purchased or ordered in bulk (possibly from a fabric store) and installed into a case with a spray on glue. Come to think of it- I may glue mine down. Last but not least, I have used the XL Classic cases (a little more affordable than the Elite's) for about 12 or 13 years. I find that the only case that needs a lining is the bass drum. The space between the lugs is so big that it rubs the lacquer on the rims. As for toms & snares, I have never had a mark of any kind, appear on any drum from sitting in an unlined XL case. The plastic isn't hard enough to scratch the chrome and metal on the lugs and hoops plus the case doesn't flex enough to touch the actual lacquered shell. And believe me, that is quite an endorsement considering the violence involved in me throwing my drums into my truck after a gig! |
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Submitted by Brooks Tarkington - 04-06 So I just bought a 9 piece orange Mapex set and it was big bucks. Now I need a LOT of cases for all of my cymbals, drums, and hardware but I don't have the money to pay for cases that will cost almost as much as my drum set. Is there a certain hard case or bag that I can use just for transporting my gear locally that won't be so expensive but also won't cause me to repair or buy a new drum set? Or is there an alternate 'homemade' thing I can do? Thanks. |
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| This question spawned a bit of a research project so we thought it best not to write the answer here but rather refer all interested readers to our Tech Talk page. There you will find several articles that are helpful in the area of transporting drums. | |||||||
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